Monday, August 16, 2010

Canada and Alaska vs. White Fang...Part 1

WOW!

We just got back yesterday from a great camping trip across Alaska and Canada. We had a wonderful time camping with John's cousin and his family - they have a little boy. We hadn't done any traveling with them and you're never too sure how that's going to go (camping can be a bit stressful and we didn't have a solid itinerary) but it couldn't have gone smoother. Great company and fabulous weather capped off a fun adventure.

We had originally planned to drive up the Dempster Highway to Inuvik, Northwest Territory, Canada...but alas, the closing of the Taylor Highway caused us to do some rethinking. We regrouped once we hit Tok and realized we'd have to add at least two days to our travels if we went up the Dempster...so we decided to head to Skagway and hit the gold rush towns.

So - here is our route (this blog is mostly for the purposes of helping me remember in the future when I scrap it, I'll add our photos and more information as the week goes by)

We left last Sunday in the afternoon and drove up out as far as the Tok Cutoff. We found a great little gravel pit to stay the night in. To our surprise, we only got the tiniest bit of rain and by the morning our tent was dry. We weren't sure what to expect for Taylor Highway conditions at that point, so we decided to head up to Tok and find out what the road was like.

I love Tok - it's such a cute little town. It's like Delta Junction - feels like the midwest in the middle of Alaska. Does it get any better than that? As I mentioned earlier - Tok is where we made our decision to head on down the road to Skagway and then up to Dawson City. The weather was just perfect and we headed down the Alaska Highway toward Kluane Lake.

We did plenty of stopping along the way and took our time driving across the highway. It was great doing this drive during the day as I felt like I'd missed so much when we drove through in the dark in July. We checked out a campground or two when we got to the lake, and finally settled on a "make your own site" right on the lake. We all slept great that night with the sound of the lake lapping the shore and just a bit of wind lulling us to sleep.

Kluane Lake is amazing. It's 150 square miles on greenish blue lake that just goes on and on. Stacey and I had a great time walking along the shore and the boys played in the dirt with Matthew. Of course we saw these signs at one of the campgrounds we checked out and I got completely freaked out about bears. The sign said that the area we were camping in was full of soap berries which apparently bears really like. Naturally we squatted our tent down right on top of a whole crop of soapberries. UGH! We didn't see any sign of bear (at all at this spot) but I kept my eye out just the same. Why can't bears just plan to stay away from me in general?

Again we were blessed with great weather (though it was a tad chilly) and headed out the next morning for Skagway. The drive down into Skagway is like you're heading into Mordor or some other mythical place. When we drove down, the fog was sitting in and it was getting misty out. I thought for sure we'd have rain once we got into the valley by the water. But once again - I was wrong.


Skagway is a great little tourist town that totally caters to cruise ships. There were four docked when we got there Tuesday evening and four when we left Wednesday morning. We took our time checking out the little town on Tuesday and did a little bit of shopping. Then we headed out to check out the town site of Dyea (the famous Klondike city where the Chilkoot trail begins) and tried to look for a camping site along the less traveled road and came back empty handed.

When we were crossing the bridge to come back into Dyea, we noticed a guy stuck in the middle of the river with his truck buried deep in water. We had a fun 'hero moment' watching Dan pull the guy out with his wench. This of course leaves John with much wench envy (and I'm talking about the kind you mount on a bumper) so we'll probably have one before too long!
We finally settled on camping in a campground and didn't get to unpacking to stay until after 9:00. This south in Alaska, it was dark much earlier than we are used to and we hadn't anticipated that. As we were getting dinner ready (of course we had to have salmon that night) the camp host came around and gave us some information on the area. She also had to tell us (again we had salmon that night) that there had been many bears in the area and one had taken a swipe at a tent two nights before. great. just. great.
Of course this put me in hyper clean up mode and I was cloroxing everything down and looking for little bits of food. We stayed up late talking that night and I think it was because we were a bit scared of going into our tents. Dan had a few hammers for fossil hunting tucked into his truck, so we went to bed each holding a hammer. I had a hard time sleeping that night - every sound was a bear trying to get into my tent and every stick breaking was a bear coming. John fell right asleep and snored away. Sigh.

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